MANCHESTER, NH – Every four years it happens: Political tourists descend on the Queen City looking for a real first-in-the-nation experience.
With the Democratic debate scheduled for Dec. 19 at Saint Anselm College, there is no doubt the Red Arrow will be jammed with tourists all weekend. They will come and they will wait in line for a coveted booth, or longer for the right number of counter seats in a row for their giddy group. They will marvel at the Mug O’Bacon and gawk at the photos hanging on the wall of fame.
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This little place has always been a huge celebrity magnet, a low-budget Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, only without the theater. Or the Chinese (unless you count the “Famous” American Chop Suey on the menu.)
And without fail, before they leave with their selfies and souvenir Dinah mugs and T-shirts, the out-of-towners will have committed all sorts of Red Arrow Diner etiquette faux pas.
Jillian Terry has seen it all. She’s been a regular for almost half her life.
“First thing you need to know is when there’s a line, you have to go all the way to the end,” says Jillian, pointing toward the far end of the counter. “As people come in you need to squeeze in. If there are enough regulars here, somebody will say something. If not, one of the staff will.”
Newbies also have a hard time figuring out where the bathrooms are.
“That’s easy, though. Just follow the arrows on the ceiling,” says Jillian, pointing up.
Oh, and expect to hear singing from the kitchen – it may be loud, and it may not be pretty, but it’s part of the secret sauce that not only makes everything so delicious, but has put the Red Arrow on the New Hampshire tourist map.
Other tips: Do NOT sit at a table until it’s been cleared, or be prepared for one of the waitresses to say something.
“I don’t want to say they’re rude about it, but they will definitely tell you not to sit until the table’s cleared – or they’ll hand you the dish towel and have you dry the table yourself,” says Jillian. “That’s part of the experience.”
If you’re looking for a place to linger over a second cup of coffee, please don’t do it here. Or at least, not during breakfast rush. Or post-bar sober-up hour.
Best time to settle in: Friday night, between 7 and 9 p.m. “That’s when it’s calm. It’s a great time for a late dinner,” says Jillian.
She has always loved the Red Arrow.
“When I was single I used to bring guys here on dates. They always hated it. Then, I brought Rob here,” she says, looking over at her husband perched on the stool next to her. He’s busy shooting the breeze with John behind the counter, more of a friend than a waiter after all these years.
“I’ll have the cheeseburger with onion rings tonight,” says Rob, although John already knows that. Just like he already knows that Jillian is having a chicken tender dinner, mac & cheese and mashed, on the side.
“The burgers here are out of this world,” says Rob.
Jillian, 28, knew Rob, 29, was a keeper when she brought him to the Red Arrow for their second date, and he actually liked it.
“Yeah, I liked everything about the place,” says Rob.
They met in 2010 at the New Hampshire Sports & Social Club, where they played recreational indoor hockey together. They used to hit the diner after hockey games every week. By 2013 they were planning a wedding.
“Actually, Red Arrow catered our wedding,” says Jillian. “We had a little bit of everything – hamburgers, chicken, sides, barbecue, and pies. Lots of pies. But the brownie cream is the best.”
Now that they’ve moved to Litchfield and switched to dodge ball, they don’t get to the diner as often.
They won’t be by this weekend – they know better than to come when the tourists are in town.
“We still come whenever we can, usually on a Friday night when we’re really hungry and want good food,” says Jillian.
And they usually leave with a doggie bag of fries. Yes, the portions are that huge. But that’s not why.
“Our husky loves the fries,” says Jillian.
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